That awful colour MGB GT

[SiC]

Fuel pump points were heavily pitted and what caused the first FTP I had.


Gaskets and diaphragm were split and shot



Of course once I removed the pump


Ever so much disturbing the pipework made it fail




Turning one job into another!

Priced up the parts to replace those bits (£49) and a new (electronic) pump wasn't much more expensive (£65) but required less fiddling to get working. Yes probably cheaper on the parts if I went autojumble hunting, but I wasn't intending to go to one any time soon. Plus I'd probably have bought the wrong bits anyway.

Fuel tank was fucked after years of water and dirt sitting on the top of it




Which leaked everytime I jacked the car up with more than half a tank of fuel



I only just recently threw that tank away, but that rusty bit on top, I managed to prod through with my fingers it was that weak.

Because MGB, a new tank was £125. Getting the old fixed would have been way more than that


Fusebox I'll give you that one, but I still will refurbish the original in time. However that was only £12 and again I just wanted to get the car sorted so I could use it this year.

Some of the bits (like the pivot arms) were replaced because I buggered up fitting parts. In the pivot arms case, I put the washers on the wrong way around, so I ended up not having enough thread for the big nut. Then I over tightened the castellated nut trying to get it into position where I could get the split pin through - thus stripping the thread.

The suspension stuff probably could have waited, but even then it was pretty shot. New pair left, old pair right.


Back end will need its rubbery bits doing at some point in the eventual future too.

Also could do with some welding action sometime on the drivers side rear spring mount, front drivers side trumpets and at the very front of the castle rail (this one is a tiny bit needed though).

[SiC]

Additionally I should add that this isn't really a complaint about spending money or the amount of parts it's needed. More an interesting (for me) exercise on what I've actually done on this car and what I've learnt in that process.

In my everyday life and work, I am surrounded with tech. For me it's nice to look at the opposite end. The simpler stuff and how we have got to where we are today.

Also mechanised/motorised transport and how they work facinate me - new, old and very old. Admittedly how they work, designed and the mechanical+electrical aspects hold the most interests. I still enjoy driving, but the novelty of that has worn off a fair bit over the years. Not helped living in a busy and very car unfriendly/inappropriate city.

So I bought this car and carried on with it very much as a learning exercise and experience. This it has been and it's taught me a lot about old car ownership, repair and maintenance that I wouldn't been able to properly achieve any other way.

Now I've learnt that bit, I guess I am now in the next stage of learning - how to and how they drive.

Some hate moderns. Some hate older cars. I embrace and enjoy driving them all*. Especially right now I am making the most of it. Before internal combustion engines or even just user driven+owned transport become again, rare and only the wealthy can afford to run.

* Except Vauxhall's. I won't miss when the very last one is scrapped.

[Cruiser45]

Once you get past the grief,older stuff is usually quite reliable.

[LynehamHerc]

There's a lot to be said for using them on a regular basis in my view otherwise everything that can seize up will.

[SiC]

Box of bits arrived yesterday.



Including these important extras


However being a fool, I've ordered the wrong rear brake rebuild kit. Accidentally ordered the one for the Roadster and pre 1968 GT. Apparently post 1968 the rear cylinders changed sizes. Thus yet another trip to buy replacement cylinders in the correct size...

Hopefully that's the only difference between the kits. Main thing is I wanted to change all the spring, hydraulic parts and adjuster. Springs probably weakened over the years and the rest will likely have had rust attack them.

Not sure what to do with the incorrect cylinders. Cba to send them back as the postage will probably end up nearly the same as what they cost. Plus the hassle of sending back.

Hopefully this weekend, as a minimum, I'll get the handbrake levers replaced. Also that clutch master changed out too. They're the minimum number of things that need doing before longer journeys can commence.

[SiC]

Not sure what to do with the incorrect cylinders.

As it turns out, unexpectedly and handily, that a GMC1103 drum brake cylinder is not only used on a MGB Roadster, but also on the MK2 and MK3 Austin 1100!?

[SiC]

Rebuilt the rear brakes this evening.
Offside first

 
Clamped the brake line to ensure I didn't leak too much fluid everywhere.

 
Took shoes and springs off first

 
Handbrake boot was in reasonable nick.

 
Used this stuff to feed the rubber and give it a bit more life. I originally bought this to clean up and feed the Smart Roadster rubbers to try stop it leaking. Good stuff.

 

 
I liked the fact that it's original OEM with the Lockheed name on it.

 
Removed the adjuster and cylinder.

 
I do like the fact Moss make the effort to acquire parts that are still imperially sized. Many of the other suppliers are cheaper but use metric bits instead.

 
Also bought this nifty tool to help put the circlip on. Wasn't sure if I'd need it, but I bought it on the basis that if they sell it, it must be a massive PIA to do without it.

 
Fits on like this once the cylinder is fitted on the back plate.


 
Saw this tip elsewhere online to clamp molegrips on the hub. Helps keep the cylinder from falling off until you get the c-clip in.

 
Tighten up nut on the tool.

 
And it's fitted.

 
The adjustor I pulled apart and coated the insides with copper grease. Hopefully the next person here will appreciate that it hasn't seized up. Did the same around the pivot point of the new handbrake lever too.

 
Drivers side done.

 
Passenger side was much of the same.

 
Did get a problem with the tool where the clip didn't slide properly when tightening. Reshaping the clip with pliers and trying again got it all together.


 
Passenger side done. Turned out that one side of the brake cylinder had siezed. I did think it was a bit unnecessary to be changing them as it seemed like they were braking ok. Just that the handbrake wasn't fully releasing. Justifies me changing both sides.

 
Backs now need bleeding, readjusting and then handbrake resetting up. Currently the handbrake is far too tight to even be able to hook it up. Also plan to rebuild the front brakes too. Again that'll need bleeding, so it'll have all nice new fluid through it once again. Once the fronts are done, the hydraulic brakes system for the most part are all new. Last year it had a new master cylinder, new linkages and new flexis. Obviously this year it's having this rebuild. Haven't touched any of the rigid pipes but these look in good condition. Rears on the axle appear to be copper based.
 
Finally to finish with the hydraulics, that clutch master needs changing out too. Then the fun of bleeding the clutch system! When I did the slave, I did find leaving the slave dangling stopped getting any bubbles trapped.
 
Quite looking forward to see how it drives once all the hydraulics are done. Hopefully it'll be a lot easier to change gear (reverse and second can especially be difficult) and the brakes will be slightly snappier. Especially given the fact that they shouldn't be rubbing, should make it drive better at speed.

[SiC]

I hate brake systems. My wife hates when I work on cars all weekend. I don't know if I like it much either

[fried onions]

Good work. Brakes are easy, provided you follow carefully the workshop manual instructions. They may always drag slightly until a few miles' use frees them off. But you should be able to turn any road wheel with your hand with it jacked up.

[SiC]

Absolute bloody mare of a job these sodding brakes.

Bleeding the rears went really easily. Got this new fangled pressurised thing. Basically like a Ezi-bleed but with its own air pump. Notice the wing protector this time. Didn't want more brake fluid spill screwing up the paint - like last time.


Handbrake adjustment ended up being a massive pain. With the drums on and adjusted, I could not get the cable loose enough to fit both sides. Even after undoing the handbrake adjuster all the way.

Ended up taking the drum off one side and doing the cable up that way. Then backing off the shoe adjustor so I could get the drum back on. Readjusted it all and ended up getting it working on the nearside. Offside doesn't want to lock unless I tighten the handbrake adjuster so tight, that the nearside is locked solid even with the handbrake off. Also requires a good 5 clicks before the car properly holds.

Must be doing something wrong.

Also went to remove the rear hub. This side has had a cross threaded damaged stud since I've had the car. Got as far as taking the nut off, then thinking better of it and put it all back together for another day. Unfortunately the wheel stud now just spins and won't tighten. Typical considering it's been able to torque up all this time. Another job pushed up on the priority list.


Next up the front brakes. I was debating not doing this, as the current do work. Even if the discs are manky and the calipers rusty. Decided in the end to just crack on.

Near side was first. Grease cap off, nut off, bearings out and then pull the hub off. Came off surprisingly easy.


Moved hub and disc to bench. Removed the two, put new disc on and tighten all up.


Fit on car and put together. Packing plenty of grease in. I think this side will need reshiming. Doesn't freely spin and zero play when pulled back and forth.


Pads had this weird coating on. Not sure what it was and wasn't that well put on. So I scraped it off



Then put brake grease on.


Put new caliper on, pads in and reassemble.


Drivers side was much the same, except the hub wouldn't come off. I ended up whacking the back side of the disc to slowly push the bearings forward. Drivers side bearings feel a tad more graunchy than the other, so may need replacing eventually. They are genuine Timken bearings that proudly say Made in England, so very likely original. Because of them probably being much better quality than any replacement, I put them back in for now and packed heavily with grease.

I did end up bending the backplate from the hammer attack, which caught the disc when reassembled. So had to disassemble it all to replace it. The kit did come with replacement backplates but these original ones looked in pretty decent condition, so I didn't intend to replace them.


Bleeding the fronts didn't go too well. Got them bled ok but then forgot that the fluid line was pressurised. I disconnected it at the master cylinder without thinking. Thankfully the coupling has a shut off valve, so I didn't get a 20psi spray of that. Unfortunately the entire contents of the master cylinder gushed out the top from the pressure release.

I tried mopping it up with paper towel as best as I could. But I suspect there maybe still some fluid sitting underneath the master cylinder. I need to get the clutch master replaced very soon, so I'll revisit that area then. Paint underneath there is fucked from years of brake fluid drips and leaks, so I'll clean it all up and give it a good slosh of paint when I'm there next.

I topped the reservoir back up and then re-bled the brakes. Only did the front as I was checking for bubbles. Thankfully none came through, so hopefully got away with it. Also glad I put that wing protector on too.

How well does it brake now? Awful!!
It requires a good half pedal of pushing before they properly bite. Full travel does stop the car but doesn't lock the wheels. Feel worse than when I started all this! Oh and it squeals now. Something I can't stand.

I think the problems are several reasons. First when I adjusted the rears, I backed it off from fully tight till they didn't run at all when spinning. I think this was too far? I guess they will rub a tad until they bed in properly. Secondly I assume that stuff on the back of the pads was supposed to be something to stop squealing?? I thought the grease stuff is supposed to stop it too though? The stuff I put on was Textar Ceratec, so not complete crap.

For now, it got driven up to the garage and put away. This got bought back down to replace it.



Annoyingly the paint got a load of crap on it. No idea how this got on the car. Luckily it washed off.


The A4 is in for an MOT this week and unfortunately Mrs SiC refuses to drive the BGT. She says she had zero interest in my old cars and doesn't want to drive them. Quite frustrating as I'd like her to give them a go. As the Boxster is modern, she doesn't mind driving that at all. In-fact she quite likes driving that a lot. Like me, she especially likes convertibles. I don't think she ever really forgave me selling her MX5 MK3 she had but then it did paid the fees when we bought our house.

Off to the Cotswolds tomorrow. I had hoped to take the BGT, but those brakes need readjusting as they aren't safe at the moment. But as I've spent most of the weekend fiddling with cars, I don't have any time really tomorrow to sort them. Plus I hurt all over from crawling around the car and I don't think I could manage another day.

I guess the Boxster isn't a car that has much love on this forum to justify a thread of its own?