Squire's voitures

Talk about your cars etc here. Keep it sort of sensible and on topic please.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by LynehamHerc »

I don't imagine that his constipation is helping either.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by fried onions »

Junkman wrote: Mon Oct 28, 2019 12:55 am I wouldn't sink a fucking penny into that shitbox.
Are there really no boundaries to being English?

The instant I were rid of that rubbish and that good for nothing Humber pile of rot, I'd be so happy I could shit.
Do piss - or shit - off.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by fried onions »

With the Traveller going in for some much needed welding repairs tomorrow, I set about trying to improve the brake pedal response and substitute the van wheels for ordinary size. I have some new tyres for the van wheels I'll fit eventually, and they need painting. I had four wheels with Michelin XZX I won on eBay a while ago. Although they had plenty of tread left the seller was less than honest in the description, as it was clear they had been on a car standing flat. Still, for £30 or whatever I didn't grumble.
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Thank goodness I bought a 12v mini-compressor, it makes life so much easier. I had to change a leaking valve core on one, I'd been waiting to deploy my little tin of spares for ages. I put a little petroleum jelly on the rubber to ensure a good seal. No more hissing, I'll check the pressures again in the morning.
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Then onto the brake bleeding operation. I had some replacement drum retaining screws, the original Philips head get mashed up over time and I had to destroy one to remove it when I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders. The replacements are slotted type, which in my opinion are much better.
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To recap the brake issue. I replaced all the brake shoes and wheel cylinders but the pedal went down to the floor even after re-adjusting the shoes. However, it could be pumped up fine and it would hold pressure for a while before going slack again.
I bled the system again today and quite a lot of air bubbles came out the bleed tube. However, this has only improved things slightly, much to my annoyance. A third round of bleeding may be necessary, because the stop lamps only activate when I push the pedal hard. So there may be air still trapped in the system. Again, like before, the pedal can be pumped up and it stays firm for a while before going slack. I'm a bit stumped by this one. I also spilled brake fluid past the master cylinder into the good chassis leg. It is a terrible design but that's how it was back in the 1940's.
The tyres are really shit, they're properly out of round due to lying flat. This is vibrating the car more than usual. I'll sack these off as soon as I can.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by SiC »

Seals in the master cylinder kaput? They went on my MGB after bleeding the brakes. Most likely because bleeding them moved it onto a rusty section and killed the seals.

If you put constant pressure on the pedal, it'd go to the floor.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by Hooli »

Wheel bearings?

I had to double pump my Midget for years before I found play in a rear bearing. The halfshaft stopped it failing MOTs but the play allowed the drum to move in and out causing the soft brakes. I think it was under 1/4" of play on one side giving an extra half a pedal travel of movement.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by Drum »

How old are the flexi pipes?
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by Eddie Honda »

fried onions wrote: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:07 pm I had four wheels with Michelin XZX I won on eBay a while ago. Although they had plenty of tread left the seller was less than honest in the description, as it was clear they had been on a car standing flat. Still, for £30 or whatever I didn't grumble.

The tyres are really shit, they're properly out of round due to lying flat. This is vibrating the car more than usual. I'll sack these off as soon as I can.
I can't remember when they last made 145 14 XZXs but surely now they'll be DRIFTYO! whether round or not?

(My old 343 has some rock 'ard Micheline from the 1980s on it. Excellent fun if the roads are in any way damp :) )
fried onions wrote: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:07 pmI put a little petroleum jelly on the rubber to ensure a good seal.
Surely that's the last thing that rubber needs? Or is it not rubber? I'd be looking for any excuse to try and use up my enormous tub of RRG.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by Eddie Honda »

fried onions wrote: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:07 pm because the stop lamps only activate when I push the pedal hard.
Sounds like the switch is tired. Had this before on a DAF where pretty much everything from wheel cylinders, callipers, servo and master cylinder was new or as new. It got to the stage I was flicking the lights on as a lame set of replacement brake lights. I was also nearly at the point of fitting a pedal switch so fuckwit tailgaters would get a fraction more warning.
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by mercrocker »

Morris brake light switches are a pain in the cunt. You can replace a 45 year old one and be doing it again in 18 months. Modern switches are made of chocolate in a Chinese chokey.

I have wired mine up through a relay and fitted LED rear bulbs in a bid to cut the amount of current going through it and hopefully cosset enough more years out of it to justify the trouble. Nuffield's insistence on wedging master cylinders in a chassis leg is also a pain in the cunt but can be slightly mollified by using a remote under-bonnet reservoir - which interestingly all Netherlands-bound Minors were fitted with from new. Bully for the Dutch....
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Re: Squire's voitures

Post by SiC »

Shouldn't need to worry about using LED rear bulbs if you are running it through a relay.
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