Sub Par Cars
Re: Sub Par Cars
Noooo... I was trying to do both.
I could try one at a time next, even though the instructions I found said both at once (although it's worth a try).
I could try one at a time next, even though the instructions I found said both at once (although it's worth a try).
- Hooli
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Re: Sub Par Cars
Had those same symptoms with a Rover 75 window. Turned out to be the anti trap wire was missing. Stripped the gubbins oot a spare door and got it all working. Possibly nowt to do wi it
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Re: Sub Par Cars
You need to re-set electric windows on a Rover 800 once a fortnight. Do one at a time to allow it learn the parameters.
As for oil, 10w/40 synthetic would be sufficient.
As for oil, 10w/40 synthetic would be sufficient.
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Re: Sub Par Cars
On Fords the procedure is to run it all the way down, release the button then push down again. Then run all the way up, release and push up again.SubPar wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 11:31 am I'm still trying to reset the electric windows.
Basically, they go down smoothly, but only go back up an inch at a time. The odometer is also blinking because the car is unhappy about something (probably the windows, as these Alfas do the odometer blink for just about anything, no matter how minor).
I found a method to reset them, but it doesn't appear to work. The method is;
- Windows all the way down, hold the switches down for 10 seconds or so.
- Windows all the way up (in steps if you have to) then once they're in the up position, hold the switches up for 10 seconds or so.
Doesn't make a blind bit of difference.
Probably different on eyetalians though.
Ben
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Re: Sub Par Cars
The power windows in my 800 were a twat to reset after a battery swap.SubPar wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 11:31 am I'm still trying to reset the electric windows.
Basically, they go down smoothly, but only go back up an inch at a time. The odometer is also blinking because the car is unhappy about something (probably the windows, as these Alfas do the odometer blink for just about anything, no matter how minor).
I found a method to reset them, but it doesn't appear to work. The method is;
- Windows all the way down, hold the switches down for 10 seconds or so.
- Windows all the way up (in steps if you have to) then once they're in the up position, hold the switches up for 10 seconds or so.
Doesn't make a blind bit of difference.
However, I have discovered what was rattling around in the back end like a skeleton wanking in a biscuit tin. The locking wheel bolt kit was just slung into the spare wheel well down the side of the spare wheel. I tucked it securely in my box o' stuff in the boot instead.
TDW disclock and killswitch champion.
Re: Sub Par Cars
I have about a litre of 10w/40 semi-synth sitting on the shelf. I might keep that in the boot as a potential source of top-ups, but will use fully-synth on the next oil change.
I've had a productive morning though. I nipped in past a wee local tyre place. One man band in a small unit, but he keeps the place super clean and tidy. The place is spotless.
He swapped the front right onto the left rear, leaving me with the two best existing tyres on the rear, then the two worst tyres (one was 3mm, and this was made clear in the for sale ad) were on the front, and got replaced with Event Potentems. I've used them before on previous cars and they do the job just fine. B rating for wet grip, C for fuel economy, and fairly average noise rating.
While I was out, my new key shell arrived from ebay.
I used half of the old one, and half of the new one to make one decent key, complete with the little tab for keyrings.
I even re-applied the little Alfa Romeo badge on the back with blu tak, shook it around a bit and it didn't fly off across the room, so I call it a success. The only fly in the ointment is that the key blade no longer swings out when I press the button with quite as much vigour as it did before. Boo!
Should be all good for my trip to Stirling on Monday to look at two flats, and in between the flat viewings I'm meeting my new boss and his boss for lunch!
If I were to downgrade to 16s I could get 205/55/16s, which are so much easier to get good tyres at a good price. But, I'd then lose the mad bio-hazard wheel design.
I've had a productive morning though. I nipped in past a wee local tyre place. One man band in a small unit, but he keeps the place super clean and tidy. The place is spotless.
He swapped the front right onto the left rear, leaving me with the two best existing tyres on the rear, then the two worst tyres (one was 3mm, and this was made clear in the for sale ad) were on the front, and got replaced with Event Potentems. I've used them before on previous cars and they do the job just fine. B rating for wet grip, C for fuel economy, and fairly average noise rating.
While I was out, my new key shell arrived from ebay.
I used half of the old one, and half of the new one to make one decent key, complete with the little tab for keyrings.
I even re-applied the little Alfa Romeo badge on the back with blu tak, shook it around a bit and it didn't fly off across the room, so I call it a success. The only fly in the ointment is that the key blade no longer swings out when I press the button with quite as much vigour as it did before. Boo!
Should be all good for my trip to Stirling on Monday to look at two flats, and in between the flat viewings I'm meeting my new boss and his boss for lunch!
If I were to downgrade to 16s I could get 205/55/16s, which are so much easier to get good tyres at a good price. But, I'd then lose the mad bio-hazard wheel design.
Last edited by SubPar on Sat Jun 19, 2021 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sub Par Cars
It's quite handy because it's still a (somewhat) useable size of hatchback too.
I had a 1.8 MX-5 a few years back, 140hp. This somehow feels more than 10hp faster. It properly flies when it gets going, and revs to the moon, silky smooth.