1966 Plymouth Fury 3
- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Got the heads back on after freeing up the valves.
Valvegear on, intake on.
I need to get some bolts to lift with, the intake is on and torqued, there's lifting points on the end of the heads.
Phil
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- panhard65
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Can you fit the engine with the torque convertor on it ? I know they are normally an absolute bastard to get them to line up and engage all the splines.
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1966 Rover P5 (for sale)
1971 Lancia Fulvia Berlinetta (also for sale)
1977 Dodge 3700GT Hearse
1987 Renault 25 V6 Turbo
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- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Thankfully the design is quite "loose", the secondary set of splines on the driven torus can wiggle about a fair bit. The gearbox is (moderately) light so picking the tailshaft up and wiggling it in frustration seems to be the way forward.
The flex plate on this is just an X, with a very rusty, slender bolt through each leg of the X. The starter ring is on the torus. Getting that bolted to the flex plate while the engine is on the floor is worse in terms of difficulty than trying to finaigle the torque converter splines back in place.
Phil
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- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
I got the studs and bolts for the exhaust manifold at the hardware store, plus some stainless screws for the valve covers.
I thought I had the gaskets for the valve covers, turns out I have another oil pan set. Unhelpful at this juncture, but needed, and also exhaust manifold gaskets.
I forgot to measure the oil pump drive, so after the fact I pulled it out and measured it across the widest point. 3/8" round rod will work, I can file that down into a hex shape to fit. I want to be able to put my drill on it and spin the oil pump over and build up oil pressure before starting the engine.
Finally, I mocked it all up for a bit of an enthusiasm boost. I need to get some carburetor studs and the correct spacer because someone has hacked the intake away with a grinder to clear the vacuum secondary mechanism, but I'm pretty sure there's enough overhead clearance to be able to put a 1/2" spacer in.
Phil
I thought I had the gaskets for the valve covers, turns out I have another oil pan set. Unhelpful at this juncture, but needed, and also exhaust manifold gaskets.
I forgot to measure the oil pump drive, so after the fact I pulled it out and measured it across the widest point. 3/8" round rod will work, I can file that down into a hex shape to fit. I want to be able to put my drill on it and spin the oil pump over and build up oil pressure before starting the engine.
Finally, I mocked it all up for a bit of an enthusiasm boost. I need to get some carburetor studs and the correct spacer because someone has hacked the intake away with a grinder to clear the vacuum secondary mechanism, but I'm pretty sure there's enough overhead clearance to be able to put a 1/2" spacer in.
Phil
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- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Got that float bowl cleaned up and the accelerator pump working again.
More of the same on the other side, the idle metering block doesn't want to come off, either.
Messy, messy.
Phil
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- Hooli
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
I've seen worse....
The spare carbs on a 125 engine I swapped last year had so much of that white flakey stuff the float bowls were totally full.
The spare carbs on a 125 engine I swapped last year had so much of that white flakey stuff the float bowls were totally full.
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- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
It's just nasty. Last time I saw a carb like this it was a lawnmower that had sat outside for a couple decades and the float bowl was full of water.
Shows you how hygroscopic ethanol is.
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Aye I never tried to clean those carbs, I just used the other set I had.
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
Oil pressure gauge hooked in where the oil warning light switch normally lives. Drill on the end of the bar and the other end slotted into the oil pump.
I figured I might as well see if I could get the oil pump to prime, so ran the drill. Immediately I got oil out of the filter holes so made a quick trip to AutoZone and bought a filter.
Tried again and got a massive oil leak onto the bench. I changed the adapter plate from the spare engine because the seal was a bit better.
Tried again and got 68psi on relief. The tappets pumped up but I'm not getting oil to the top end so I need to check that. Either the head gasket is wrong, the bar is on wrong or something is blocked somewhere.
I don't think the crank needs to be rotating to feed oil to the top end.
Better to find that now than when the valvetrain seizes up...
Phil
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- PhilA
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Re: 1966 Plymouth Fury 3
I was wrong, the cam needs to rotate to feed oil to the top end, it points the port one side each rotation to prevent oil overdose of the top end.
I'll spin it over to get it fed them we should be good.
Phil
I'll spin it over to get it fed them we should be good.
Phil
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