Land Rover Rustorashun and other shit

[richardthestag]

and there's more..

Also on 1968 Series IIa I repaired the battery feed to the ignition circuit. Something had gone a little high resistance and was starving the coil of juice during starting. New crimp terminals and a good clean up of everything has got is starting nicely again.

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Then a fucking epic palaver shifting the 1980 Series 3 van from the lean-too and into the workshop. 5 blokes, a series IIa and a Range Rover on soggy wet grass which makes dads paddock look like something from 1915 western front.

Anyway, Series 3 needs brakes, clutch hydraulics, dampers and bulkhead work before it goes up for sale. Strip down starts to get the bulkhead sorted

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Nipped into town and took a pic of the now finished* Southpaw in South Molton (phase 2 works to take place later this year maybe)

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On the Series 3, the heater blower is rusted solid, arse! Just need to undo the 4 bolts that hold the heater unit in. 2 nut and bolt and 2 captive

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captives did not want to let go, ended up spinning the rivnuts. No room to cut the bolt heads off so I had to cut the bulkhead open to access. Lots of swearing

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quite a lot of filla in this area! the a-post and most of the footwell are original 1980 though. less bodges to unstitch

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floors came out easily and chassis is solid

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this is what remained on the passenger side once i had removed bolted on bodges

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next up is to lift the roof and sides to allow the screen to be removed. of course the unobtainium screen hinges were all rusted, managed to cut them without causing too much damage.

Top edge of that bulkhead is proper fucked though, Nothing but filler is holding the top door hinge area to the bulkhead

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and there's more ...

[richardthestag]

last load for today

bulkhead can be lifted off without too much bother once a couple of bolts succumbed to Mr Windgy-gun

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Quite disappointed at this stage thinking maybe a new bulkhead at £1600 is needed. Had this been for a customer it could probably be justified. Nearly £500 of panels needed and days of my time to fix it.

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amused to find that the bulkhead a-post foot (supposed to hold the bulkhead and a-post to the chassis) was not even attached to the bulkhead on the drivers side. Here it is on the deck after I cut it free from the door sill

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As I am planning to replace both inner and outer skins on around the bulkhead vents I need to first cut off the screen hinge pillars and the bonnet mounts. quite rusty but recoverable.

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This is the drivers side vent, with screen pillar removed. Most of that top edge was filler, over foam! ffs

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the idea is to replace a-post and footwell on drivers side, tack it into place. refit to chassis and confirm alignment before welding it into place. Then I can repeat on the passenger side. and lastly address the issues with the top rail and vent panel.

here I find an a-post repair panel hammered over the rusty original a-post

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A quick distraction from a not entirely uncommon bodged old Land Rover, fix the rattling brake pads on my daily. For some reason new pads, even to OE standards knock back and forth in the calliper, this is fucking annoying.

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the fix is to get anti squeal tape from BiggRed and stick it onto the back of each brake pad. This gives the calliper pistons something to bite into on the back of the pad and does hold them steadier in the calliper. 400 mile round trip this weekend will tell whether it is fixed. The pads do have anti squeal backing but it is shiny and slippery

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Back onto Series 3 yesterday, someone at Lode Lane went fucking berserk with the spot welder on the original footwell, way too many! I intend to cut quite a bit lump out of this lip and weld in new metal

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here is panels for the gearbox cover and bulkhead side held roughly in place. I need the new footwell before I can tack it all in and check for alignment

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that will be next week

[LynehamHerc]

I so wish that I had your skills.

[John F]

Hah, I had to fabricate a new window channel to replace the rotted-out one on my old Disco 300 Tdi. What a ball-ache that was, either I could fit the window but it would come loose again or I couldn't get the window into the tighter-crimped channel. I ended up having to tap the new channel & fit grub screws to get it to grip the window properly.
I've since worked on a Mitsubishi Shogun that had a much better system for gripping the window (two separate half-channels that can be slid on from each end of the window), if I'd done that before having to fettle my Disco I'd have copied the Mitsubishi solution, which is much better.

[MLOR]

Richard Owen http://www.landroverbulkhead.co.uk/ makes a nice bulkhead and has good service but I think his waiting list is now lonngg.
WestlakesAWD is a thieving con artist so avoid.
Classic Bulkheads http://classicbulkheads.com/ panels are good but their customer service can be a bit crap.
There is a fella in NI whose stuff I haven't seen so not commenting.
YRM are good https://yrmit.co.uk/yrm-parts/
There was a outfit in Surrey - Pegasus - people have been waiting years for refunds from them.

Where are you getting your vent panels from ? YRM?

[Hooli]

You tweaking southpaw for more go? They respond well to turning a few screws.

The best improvement is winding the Allen bolt in a turn or two on top of the UFO shaped bit on the pump. That improves off boost power so it'll actually move under 1,500rpm.

[richardthestag]

Richard Owen http://www.landroverbulkhead.co.uk/ makes a nice bulkhead and has good service but I think his waiting list is now lonngg.
WestlakesAWD is a thieving con artist so avoid.
Classic Bulkheads http://classicbulkheads.com/ panels are good but their customer service can be a bit crap.
There is a fella in NI whose stuff I haven't seen so not commenting.
YRM are good https://yrmit.co.uk/yrm-parts/
There was a outfit in Surrey - Pegasus - people have been waiting years for refunds from them.

Where are you getting your vent panels from ? YRM?

Because the time is mine, i.e. free I am going to fix this one but reckon on a new bulkhead being cheaper if I was charging myself.

Panels have come from a mix of Paddockspares, YRM and Classicbulkheads https://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index ... uct_id=106 who do the top rail inner skin repair that is terminally rotten on mine

[richardthestag]

You tweaking southpaw for more go? They respond well to turning a few screws.

The best improvement is winding the Allen bolt in a turn or two on top of the UFO shaped bit on the pump. That improves off boost power so it'll actually move under 1,500rpm.

at the mo it is ok, the turbo is tired and the engine internals are an unknown. If it were mine I would have a play but I am a little scared of stretching it too far

1st and 2nd it does pull well below 1500rpm, just when you get to 3rd and above that you need to stir the gears

[Hooli]

Mine was a pain in the arse off road until tweaked as it couldn't rock crawl at idle in 1st. Sounds like that one would.

Mine ended up running a full width intercooler, 23psi of boost and the fuelling turned up a lot. I think it weighed in around 2.5ton with all the extras and kit on board. Still out dragged standard V8 on 70-80% SVO.

[MLOR]

here I find an a-post repair panel hammered over the rusty original a-post

At least you had an A post


Still what do you expect for free from an Aberdeenshire Farmer!