Dan's Crapi project.
- Warren t claim
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
Didn't some Shields not have the diagonal stripe? I'm sure it denoted something like a pinto engine?
TDW disclock and killswitch champion.
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
Next job was the brake lines. This was a cunt of a job and I very nearly gave up and reused the shitty original ones. They’re all sorted now though thank fuck. In hindsight though I should have gone for cunifer pipe, instead I got boggo copper. Still, live and learn.
I’ve also bent these new pipes up to shape then sprayed them with engine bay heat proof lacquer to stop them going green! I like the copper colour!
Servo back in. The master cylinder’s are also different to mk1 and later mk2 and 3 parts. Mines had a strip and clean with new seals.
A few pics of the new lines.
I’ve also fitted new flexi hoses all round, and cleaned the engine bay pipe splitter back to bare brass!
Then the callipers were painted in black VHT paint and reinstalled along with the rear brakes.
The rear brakes are mk1 items using the old single acting cylinders etc, again, another difference to normal mk2’s.
The brake adjuster arms are hard to find and always seem to snap off but a new custom made pair complete the rear brakes.
I’ve also bent these new pipes up to shape then sprayed them with engine bay heat proof lacquer to stop them going green! I like the copper colour!
Servo back in. The master cylinder’s are also different to mk1 and later mk2 and 3 parts. Mines had a strip and clean with new seals.
A few pics of the new lines.
I’ve also fitted new flexi hoses all round, and cleaned the engine bay pipe splitter back to bare brass!
Then the callipers were painted in black VHT paint and reinstalled along with the rear brakes.
The rear brakes are mk1 items using the old single acting cylinders etc, again, another difference to normal mk2’s.
The brake adjuster arms are hard to find and always seem to snap off but a new custom made pair complete the rear brakes.
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
I think the black with diagonal stripes like mine are for the Pinto. There’s a similar red one for the X flow and another for the V6.Warren t claim wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:15 pm Didn't some Shields not have the diagonal stripe? I'm sure it denoted something like a pinto engine?
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
At some point in the middle of this going on I had dug the interior out of storage.
I’ve actually got two complete interiors for this car. Both L spec and right for the age of this car, but one in brown and one in black.
The black one is this cars original interior but it was in a terrible state so years ago I bought the brown interior to replace it as it’s in good condition.
Now I’ve done all this work on the car and gone for blue paint I also now wanted a black interior again. Luckily I’d kept the original black interior so I took it to a local trimmer to see what he could do.
Here’s the original seats after coming out of storage.
The trimmer said the seats were a simple rebuild and retrim. However, the door cards are much more difficult. You can’t buy them new and you can’t get any bits of them like the chrome plastic trims etc either. To add to the difficulty, the way they were made when new means if you try to make new replacements they won’t look the same. He said he’d try to save the originals and repair them with new ply back boards instead of the hardboard water absorbent originals.
Here’s the results...
The door card is now ply using the original as a pattern. Since you can’t roll ply into the curved shape required for the tops he managed to save the original ones and attached them to the ply before managing to separate the very old crispy vinyl etc from the old cards and then transferred it onto the new ply back boards! Then he fixed the rips and damage on the bottoms. He did a blinding job imho, a real tradesmen. You can see the damage still if you really look but it’s a 100% improvement. And I don’t think I’d get it better any other way.
Here’s the seats after he retrimmed them.
The vinyl is all new as is the cloth centre bits. The foam inside is either new or good original and the springs etc have been fixed too. The drivers seat frame turned out to be cracked so that was welded too.
The cloth isn’t exact to original but I couldn’t find any the same so went for plain black ‘close enough’ fabric.
I’ve actually got two complete interiors for this car. Both L spec and right for the age of this car, but one in brown and one in black.
The black one is this cars original interior but it was in a terrible state so years ago I bought the brown interior to replace it as it’s in good condition.
Now I’ve done all this work on the car and gone for blue paint I also now wanted a black interior again. Luckily I’d kept the original black interior so I took it to a local trimmer to see what he could do.
Here’s the original seats after coming out of storage.
The trimmer said the seats were a simple rebuild and retrim. However, the door cards are much more difficult. You can’t buy them new and you can’t get any bits of them like the chrome plastic trims etc either. To add to the difficulty, the way they were made when new means if you try to make new replacements they won’t look the same. He said he’d try to save the originals and repair them with new ply back boards instead of the hardboard water absorbent originals.
Here’s the results...
The door card is now ply using the original as a pattern. Since you can’t roll ply into the curved shape required for the tops he managed to save the original ones and attached them to the ply before managing to separate the very old crispy vinyl etc from the old cards and then transferred it onto the new ply back boards! Then he fixed the rips and damage on the bottoms. He did a blinding job imho, a real tradesmen. You can see the damage still if you really look but it’s a 100% improvement. And I don’t think I’d get it better any other way.
Here’s the seats after he retrimmed them.
The vinyl is all new as is the cloth centre bits. The foam inside is either new or good original and the springs etc have been fixed too. The drivers seat frame turned out to be cracked so that was welded too.
The cloth isn’t exact to original but I couldn’t find any the same so went for plain black ‘close enough’ fabric.
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
- Warren t claim
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
I thought that only the 1300 had a non split rear seat?
TDW disclock and killswitch champion.
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
Next up - wiring looms.
There’s two main looms on a Capri. One for the engine bay and one for the cabin. They join together through two big rubbery connectors on the bulkhead and through the fuse box.
Mine have been sat in a box for a few years so have started to lose their shape a bit. Once straightened out the cabin loom seemed fine just needing a few small repairs. The engine bay one was good but the loom tape was all rotten, dirty and crispy so, since it was very visible afterwards I stripped it right down and rewrapped it in black loom tape.
Once the old tape was off the wires inside were like new still. It’s actually quite therapeutic wrapping the loom with new tape too!
The cabin loom was good enough to leave alone, I just cleaned the connectors and fed it back into the car.
There’s two main looms on a Capri. One for the engine bay and one for the cabin. They join together through two big rubbery connectors on the bulkhead and through the fuse box.
Mine have been sat in a box for a few years so have started to lose their shape a bit. Once straightened out the cabin loom seemed fine just needing a few small repairs. The engine bay one was good but the loom tape was all rotten, dirty and crispy so, since it was very visible afterwards I stripped it right down and rewrapped it in black loom tape.
Once the old tape was off the wires inside were like new still. It’s actually quite therapeutic wrapping the loom with new tape too!
The cabin loom was good enough to leave alone, I just cleaned the connectors and fed it back into the car.
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
All base or L spec models, so in the U.K. market the 1300L and 1600L had the non split rear seat.Warren t claim wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2019 11:03 pm I thought that only the 1300 had a non split rear seat?
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
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- Joined: Sat May 18, 2019 11:39 am
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
Some more engine bay building.
The engine bay loom and radiator etc are going back in here.
The radiator is an original Capri shell with a bigger Cortina 2.3 core added for extra cooling. All hoses etc are new.
Horn is a new old stock mk3 part, almost the same!
Washer bottle is a clean new old stock one, fuse box is refurbished and has proper ceramic fuses and the vacuum servo pipe (was missing) came from eBay, had a clean up and coat of etch primer them some Roman Bronze paint! They should be that anodised gold-ish colour but the bronze is a nice nod to the cars previous colour!
The engine bay loom and radiator etc are going back in here.
The radiator is an original Capri shell with a bigger Cortina 2.3 core added for extra cooling. All hoses etc are new.
Horn is a new old stock mk3 part, almost the same!
Washer bottle is a clean new old stock one, fuse box is refurbished and has proper ceramic fuses and the vacuum servo pipe (was missing) came from eBay, had a clean up and coat of etch primer them some Roman Bronze paint! They should be that anodised gold-ish colour but the bronze is a nice nod to the cars previous colour!
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
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- Posts: 293
- Joined: Sat May 18, 2019 11:39 am
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Re: Dans Crapi project.
I’ve been going around the car filling it with cavity wax too for long term protection. All the panels and box sections have been sprayed with Dynax S50 - always on hot sunny days so the wax is thin and can soak into the seams and joints. It makes a hell of a mess but it’s well worth the effort.
The underside of the car is as per factory. It’s had the seam sealing done, then stone chip paint then over sprayed in blue body colour. This car is a toy now not a daily driver so I can afford to leave it at factory protection level! Dry summer use only now!
However, anywhere that’s exposed or particularly rot prone has had a good coat of Dynax UB clear wax. This is thicker sticky under body wax but being clear when dry means the body colour still comes through so you can keep the factory appearance.
Also, all the original bitumen sound deadening pads on the floors and inside panels was obviously lost when the shell was bare metalled so to replace it I’ve used modern equivalent but with ally heat shielding added. I’ve used more of it than Ford did too just keep the noise down and make things more comfortable inside.
Had a result too! I want close to original for this car so I set about tracking down a pair of the correct door mirrors for this car. As an early 74 car it should have mirrors that are similar but not identical to those used on mk1’s. However they aren’t the same, and these mirrors were only used between Jan 74 and about Nov 74, which makes them hard to find now.
But I managed to scour the worlds stores and turn up these...
New old stock, still boxed and never used!
And, yes, I’m aware that an L should only have a drivers mirror! But nowadays I think having the two is a much better idea. They weren’t easy to find but worth the effort imho.
The underside of the car is as per factory. It’s had the seam sealing done, then stone chip paint then over sprayed in blue body colour. This car is a toy now not a daily driver so I can afford to leave it at factory protection level! Dry summer use only now!
However, anywhere that’s exposed or particularly rot prone has had a good coat of Dynax UB clear wax. This is thicker sticky under body wax but being clear when dry means the body colour still comes through so you can keep the factory appearance.
Also, all the original bitumen sound deadening pads on the floors and inside panels was obviously lost when the shell was bare metalled so to replace it I’ve used modern equivalent but with ally heat shielding added. I’ve used more of it than Ford did too just keep the noise down and make things more comfortable inside.
Had a result too! I want close to original for this car so I set about tracking down a pair of the correct door mirrors for this car. As an early 74 car it should have mirrors that are similar but not identical to those used on mk1’s. However they aren’t the same, and these mirrors were only used between Jan 74 and about Nov 74, which makes them hard to find now.
But I managed to scour the worlds stores and turn up these...
New old stock, still boxed and never used!
And, yes, I’m aware that an L should only have a drivers mirror! But nowadays I think having the two is a much better idea. They weren’t easy to find but worth the effort imho.
88 Volvo 740 2.3GLE
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8
74 Ford Capri 1.6L
73 Mercury Marquis Brougham 7.0 V8