Pug 107 (currently kidnapped), citroen relay and '14 Vespa gts ie 125

[paulplom]

Worse. Flashing multicolour strip leds around the entire dashboard, cat delete, shopping list, shit stickers all over, spray painted lace on the roof, pop bang and flame remap etc etc.

[SiC]

Sounds just the right person to be fiddling with fuel mappings...

[paulplom]

He's maged to get is 1.9 tdi to pop and bang by playing with the fuelling. That takes some doing never mind the flames. I've never heard of a diesel doing it before. He did ask me if I wanted that doing. I said I'm fifty ffs. He said I know I'm just pulling your leg.
Not everyone's a ham fisted cunt you know SiC. There are some decent people out there. I must meet half a dozen new people every day. I'm a pretty good judge of character.
He also said 10psi was normal for a 225. He said 15 or above wouldn't be good at all for it. He reckons 15 and above is fine for diesels though. He said the guage reading negative pressure at idle was perfectly normal. So when it's reading about 10 psi full boost it's reading right. He did identify the forge dump valve and recommended gettig rid of it for a recirc one as they actually make you lose power.

[DVee8]

Me and Mark(gm) were talking to him at one of the car shows at the North East restoration club in Washington. I remember the roof of the Passat.

[paulplom]

We need a track day. Exo v tt!

[SiC]

14 owners. He bought it earlier this year, you can see how the pop and bang is done by the filthy, sooty mess on the bumper. Makes zero point apart from pointing out you're a tosser. That flame is going through the valves and turbo, so you can imagine what that does to it. The reason you don't see it very often as it kills engines. Remember there is less heat to ignite and no sparking plug to aid it.

There is a lot of information out there that says 12psi boost with around 14psi peak. If 10psi is stock and 15psi is dangerous, what has "his" map put it to?

I know you think he's the bees knees but the reality is that he's just downloading maps from tuning sellers and flashing them on. Nothing clever about it. At least he's not charging the earth for doing that.
If you want to make maps (properly and not bodged) you ideally need a rolling road. It's possible to get rather close with a wide band sensor and butt dyno but certainly can't get terribly accurate power values by doing that.

[SiC]

He did identify the forge dump valve and recommended gettig rid of it for a recirc one as they actually make you lose power.

Unless it's leaking, how would it lose power? At WOT the valve is shut to provide full boost. If it wasn't, you'd be getting the DV code I was having.

What it will do is increase lag between gear changes as you're dumping all that pressure rather than diverting it back around the turbo, keeping it spinning. It's got to build all that pressure up again, hence the lag but the engine won't "loose power". This is a simplified diagram that doesn't show everything but gives an idea of the primary parts of the turbo system.

[panhard65]

I remember years ago when I had my first 25 turbo I got chatting to the guys at turbo technics. (I was having a Land Rover turbo reconditioned) The guy said they could take my 25 from 180bhp to just over 200. He also said that if I wanted the car to last more than a few hundred miles not to waste my money. Manufactures spend fortunes finding the best compromise between performance and reliability, I like to think they know what they are doing. If you want a faster car buy one rather than stretching the limit of what you have as it never ends well.

[paulplom]

It's still shows 10 psi on the guage on wot. No danger then.

[paulplom]

He did identify the forge dump valve and recommended gettig rid of it for a recirc one as they actually make you lose power.

Unless it's leaking, how would it lose power? At WOT the valve is shut to provide full boost. If it wasn't, you'd be getting the DV code I was having.

What it will do is increase lag between gear changes as you're dumping all that pressure rather than diverting it back around the turbo, keeping it spinning. It's got to build all that pressure up again, hence the lag but the engine won't "loose power". This is a simplified diagram that doesn't show everything but gives an idea of the primary parts of the turbo system.

I'm not interested in all that shit though. I'm a plumber ffs. It drives exactly the same. Just as smooth but more shove. These are cheap cars if it fucks it fucks.
Anyway mine's fitter, shinier and a lot faster than yours. So there