Squire's voitures
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Re: Squire's voitures
Have you tried tightening them up first? Just a tiny bit would be enough to break the seal
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Re: Squire's voitures
Managed to remove one, the threads were completely gone and the bolt thinned where it passed through the metalwork. I drilled the other out. I used new nuts and bolts and test drove the car, I cannot make the noise appear again so that must've been it. But when I got back and checked the nuts again both had loosened. So I'll do a bit more thinking, possibly remove the drop link so the bracket isn't under tension, then see what I can do. Might get it welded to the wishbone.
Squire Dawson
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Re: Squire's voitures
If you want something that will look the part
Airotight Nuts look the part
And being metal locking they won't shake off if they get hot
Airotight Nuts look the part
And being metal locking they won't shake off if they get hot
.
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Re: Squire's voitures
Nylocks shouldn't vibrate loose.
On the road:
1998 Disco 4.0 V8 (manual)
1994 Vauxhall Calibra 3.0 V6
Running but need fettling:
1986 Honda CBX750F
1991 Maserati 222 SE
1990 Yamaha XJ900F
Tax & MOT-exempt, woohoo!
1982 Suzuki GSX1100SZ Katana
1998 Disco 4.0 V8 (manual)
1994 Vauxhall Calibra 3.0 V6
Running but need fettling:
1986 Honda CBX750F
1991 Maserati 222 SE
1990 Yamaha XJ900F
Tax & MOT-exempt, woohoo!
1982 Suzuki GSX1100SZ Katana
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Re: Squire's voitures
Cheers. Upon further investigation after removing the ARB and the problem bracket, the holes are so worn they are now elongated. So no number of nuts and bolts will work. As a consequence I'm psyching myself up to change the wishbone with one of my spares with a rusted solid bracket which won't budge. Can't go on like this because the handling is severely compromised and I often drive my cars hard. Another reason for changing the wishbone is that I can remove all the associated components, de-rust and paint up nice again.
Also, seeing as it was such a nice day, I set about freeing the stuck open valve on the Low Comp. Morris engine. Tried Plusgas and twatting it with a rubber mallet interspersed with wood stick but that didn't work, so brought the old Bullfinch gas torch out. Heated up the valve nice and hot and gave the valve another twatting, whereupon it yielded. Smacked it open and closed again for good measure. Next step with this lump is to clean up the top end, lap the valves and shit and then make a start on the distributor and block.
Also, seeing as it was such a nice day, I set about freeing the stuck open valve on the Low Comp. Morris engine. Tried Plusgas and twatting it with a rubber mallet interspersed with wood stick but that didn't work, so brought the old Bullfinch gas torch out. Heated up the valve nice and hot and gave the valve another twatting, whereupon it yielded. Smacked it open and closed again for good measure. Next step with this lump is to clean up the top end, lap the valves and shit and then make a start on the distributor and block.
Squire Dawson
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Re: Squire's voitures
With your bolt holes, what about welding them up in-situ & then redrilling them? clamping some wood behind the hold would make the weld stay in place as you did it.
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Re: Squire's voitures
Worn holes can be reclaimed with careful welding.
I'll tell the Mad Wife In The Attic that,
I may be sometime...
I'll tell the Mad Wife In The Attic that,
I may be sometime...
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