The Dark Wob

PhilA wrote:Then it's not that, it was just slow to drain and would burp out the filler cap on his. A-series but the A and B aren't that far off in terms of design.

But yeah, if it's using that much, it'll smell blue out the exhaust and you'll definitely see it in your mirror, particularly after pulling away from a set of lights, for example.

It can only go out the exhaust, into the coolant or onto the exterior of the engine. Or your neighbors have a Pela and are stealing your oil as you sleep.

--Phil

My fear is that it's leaking out the rear main.
At the bottom of the clutch house there is a constant dribble of oil. Likewise oil is noticeable by the clutch fork arm. 
I'm just hoping that the clutch housing isn't steadily been filled up with oil! However I'd surely expect some clutch slippage if this was the case. Especially if filled up with oil.

Also it only seems to loose it at any real rate when driven hard with a lot of acceleration. So not sure if the rear main would leak all the time - rather than sporty driving?

Coolant isn't oily and there isn't a massive noticeable amount of oil on the bottom. Well it is oily of course, but not dripping loads when sat after a run.

Common fault. There should be a drain at the bottom but windage from the flywheel will drive the oil around and out any aperture all over the bellhousing, gearbox and from there underside of the car.

I think you can get scrolled seals for these that really help with oil loss prevention if that's where it's losing it.

Phil

I might pull the rubber fork boot off and get a camera down in there once I get the car back from the in-laws. In the meantime he's using it for a bit and then it has to get to FoTU.

If it is leaking out there it will have to wait. It's using a lot, but given its an engine out job, fixing it will take time. Will stay like it certainly for the rest of the season.

Getting the engine out though means it makes a lot of sense (apart from financial) for me to send it off for a rebuild. Especially as I now know it's done at least 158k, so it's done alright so far. Wouldn't be surprised if it led a relatively easy and sedate life until it got into my hands...

If no clutch slip or judder and you know to keep it topped up... keep topping it up.

That's the BL way.

--Phil

PhilA wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2019 5:42 pm If no clutch slip or judder and you know to keep it topped up... keep topping it up.

That's the BL way.

--Phil

If it is leaking due to something internally, then it's almost certain that the engine will need to be pulled. If that happens then it will go for a full rebuild. Too many things that need doing which makes it futile to repair piece meal.

Oil pressure gets ... interesting when cruising at 70mph on a motorway. Starts off at around 48psi, then the longer the journey is the more it drops. Lowest I've seen it is just tad over 40psi. Now the gauge could be playing up, but its pretty repeatable when going for longer runs. I guess just the oil thinning out with heat and the oil pump struggling.

Yup, hot oil, slightly sloppy tolerances.

The gauge isn't that accurate of an instrument, either.

So long as it's more than about 25PSI at 70 it's not gonna fall to bits.


--Phil

I wouldn't worry too much yet. It will become obvious at some point. Worry then. Until then, keep topping up and just enjoy it.

It ain't happening yet, but I've been pricing up rebuild options.

Fast road @ 1860cc:
Ivor Searle - £2388
Oselli - £2950
Peter Burgess - £3240

If I go stock rebuild:
Ivor Searle - £1578
Oselli - £2150
(Peter Burgess price is unknown)

Could also use a local engine builder if going stock too. However I can't imagine it'll be too much difference from Ivor Searle price.

Problem is, I've already looking at getting something else and those prices for a fast road engine would mean that couldn't happen. Hmm.

But then a rebuild will be waiting till next year anyway.

Why bother with an uprated build? The MGB will keep up with modern traffic in standard guise.

An uprated B series will not make much difference to performance but will be much more delicate.

Ben

Funnily enough I was just thinking about that when I was going home from work. If I only had one toy I'd go for the 1860cc - probably not bigger for fragility reasons. At least the 1860 can stay with the same standard head gasket. However it's not going to offer way more performance.

As I've got the Boxster, if I want something with more performance I'd take that out. Plus I ought to put a limit at some point on my spending on toys as it gets a bit silly otherwise.