Squire's voitures
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Re: Squire's voitures
I think it may be cream-crackered. It came on at the end of a journey and no longer comes on when the ignition is switched on.
Squire Dawson
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- Hooli
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Re: Squire's voitures
I had a Carlton with a dodgy diode pack once that charged for the first 10miles of a trip & then failed as it got hot. That was fun* to work out.
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- Junkman
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Re: Squire's voitures
It does sound like regulator, not alternator.
Supply Chain Disruption
1957 DKW 3=6 Sonderklasse
1967 Renault 16 GL
1983 Renault 4 TL
2001 Mercedes E240
2002 Datsun Dice
1957 DKW 3=6 Sonderklasse
1967 Renault 16 GL
1983 Renault 4 TL
2001 Mercedes E240
2002 Datsun Dice
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Re: Squire's voitures
Well, I went out to it and switched the ignition on, and the red charge light came on. Not started the engine yet to see what happens.
My carburettor kit came today. I studied the workshop manual prior to commencing work. First step was to clean the dirty exterior.
The venturi and strangler flap were black and coated in a carbon-like substance.
When I took the top off and dismantled the various pieces step by step, I found the accelerator pump outlet to be very loose. This screw was not tightened down at all. This could well have been the cause of the poor running.
I had to remove it anyway for cleaning and replace the little gasket. This is the tiny steel ball you don't want to lose.
I blew all jets and passages out with compressed air and cleaned all parts as best I could. Carburettors are quite delicate things so care must be taken and the instructions were quite specific that nothing must be used to prod or poke orifices to clean them, because they are carefully calibrated. I used a 12v tyre compressor with one of the tapered plastic adaptors.
It was only left to re-assemble it, and things were looking good.
I used new gaskets throughout...
...which were a very poor fit. This is a comparison of the new and old carb to manifold gasket. The carb top cover gasket was also slightly smaller. I think I'll stick to making my own in future instead of paying good money for this rat shit.
I fitted it back to the engine. Removal and replacement could not be easier on this setup. I gave the hand priming lever on the petrol pump a few strokes and operated the throttle to test the accelerator pump. Success! It will be some time before I try and start the engine though.
My carburettor kit came today. I studied the workshop manual prior to commencing work. First step was to clean the dirty exterior.
The venturi and strangler flap were black and coated in a carbon-like substance.
When I took the top off and dismantled the various pieces step by step, I found the accelerator pump outlet to be very loose. This screw was not tightened down at all. This could well have been the cause of the poor running.
I had to remove it anyway for cleaning and replace the little gasket. This is the tiny steel ball you don't want to lose.
I blew all jets and passages out with compressed air and cleaned all parts as best I could. Carburettors are quite delicate things so care must be taken and the instructions were quite specific that nothing must be used to prod or poke orifices to clean them, because they are carefully calibrated. I used a 12v tyre compressor with one of the tapered plastic adaptors.
It was only left to re-assemble it, and things were looking good.
I used new gaskets throughout...
...which were a very poor fit. This is a comparison of the new and old carb to manifold gasket. The carb top cover gasket was also slightly smaller. I think I'll stick to making my own in future instead of paying good money for this rat shit.
I fitted it back to the engine. Removal and replacement could not be easier on this setup. I gave the hand priming lever on the petrol pump a few strokes and operated the throttle to test the accelerator pump. Success! It will be some time before I try and start the engine though.
Squire Dawson
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- mercrocker
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Re: Squire's voitures
Very neat working arrangement there, nice tidy tray with compartmented boxes. An absolute necessity when dealing with intricate assemblies. I always do that. Then knock the fucking thing off the work-bench.....
There's a great long bar in Rock & Roll heaven.......
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Re: Squire's voitures
I couldn't sleep without firing it up and seeing whether/how it runs.
Supply Chain Disruption
1957 DKW 3=6 Sonderklasse
1967 Renault 16 GL
1983 Renault 4 TL
2001 Mercedes E240
2002 Datsun Dice
1957 DKW 3=6 Sonderklasse
1967 Renault 16 GL
1983 Renault 4 TL
2001 Mercedes E240
2002 Datsun Dice
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Re: Squire's voitures
Sometimes you sleep better thinking you have fixed something.....
There's a great long bar in Rock & Roll heaven.......
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Re: Squire's voitures
The women in the house were not impressed...mercrocker wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2019 9:01 pm Very neat working arrangement there, nice tidy tray with compartmented boxes. An absolute necessity when dealing with intricate assemblies. I always do that. Then knock the fucking thing off the work-bench.....
Can't yet old boy as the car is up on axle stands for clutch replacement. I won't start an engine from cold and stop it. I might end up dreaming about it though, hopefully not a nightmare.
Squire Dawson
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Re: Squire's voitures
OK, clutch replacement time, hopefully its the right part and all goes to plan...
The car is up on ramps at the front and axle stands at the rear. Ground clearance is generous as it is, but I went under the car to assess the job and space for maneuvering. I'll have a stab at it, the gearbox isn't particularly large, it's only a 3-speed, and the gearbox can be separated from the bellhousing.
I needed access, so removed all the hatches. So far this has been the hardest job, as the small Philips head screws were stuck fast. I resorted to mole grips on the threads from underneath.
I don't think this part of the car is going to suffer from corrosion.
I marked the prop shaft position in relation to the gearbox and loosened the nuts.
The workshop manual says the prop shaft should be removed, but as there are two prop shafts and the one concerned is held in some sort of cradle, I elected to just tie it up. I split it from the gearbox tail shaft and I think this will be satisfactory.
Next, disconnect all control cables, rods, wires and clutch slave cylinder, &c
The car is up on ramps at the front and axle stands at the rear. Ground clearance is generous as it is, but I went under the car to assess the job and space for maneuvering. I'll have a stab at it, the gearbox isn't particularly large, it's only a 3-speed, and the gearbox can be separated from the bellhousing.
I needed access, so removed all the hatches. So far this has been the hardest job, as the small Philips head screws were stuck fast. I resorted to mole grips on the threads from underneath.
I don't think this part of the car is going to suffer from corrosion.
I marked the prop shaft position in relation to the gearbox and loosened the nuts.
The workshop manual says the prop shaft should be removed, but as there are two prop shafts and the one concerned is held in some sort of cradle, I elected to just tie it up. I split it from the gearbox tail shaft and I think this will be satisfactory.
Next, disconnect all control cables, rods, wires and clutch slave cylinder, &c
Squire Dawson
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- Hooli
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Re: Squire's voitures
Somewhere I've got a multsized clutch alignment tool I got to do my Midget with, if you've not already done the job by the next meet you can borrow it if you need.
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