Parantodd392 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 11:50 pm
Hi there wobbers I’m looking for advice I’m looking at diesel auto 75 or ztt Is there anything I need to know about them,I went to look at one at a local rover specialist but got messed about so I thought I’d ask what to look out for when looking in the future
Many thanks PT
Thats a good choice of engine and box combination. The diesel is a BMW M47R and they're exceptionally robust with no major known issues.
Make sure any one you go and see starts up easily and runs smooth. Crank pulleys are rubber damped and can fall to bits, but the pulley will rattle loudly long before it fails. Ask if the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) filter has been changed. They are often overlooked and failing to change them can result in oil squirting out the dip stick hole, smoke and other issues. Its a £10 part and easy to replace. Almost all will have had a stuck open thermostat by now. Replacement is a turd of a job, in all 3 of mine I have shoved an inline Renault 5-style item in the top hose for £20 and its worked perfectly. This is the recommended solution.
The Jatco auto box is fairly reliable but sometimes solenoids can crack resulting in erratic changes. They also must have the correct Jatco 5406 fluid, the wrong stuff will kill it. Just check it changes OK.
An illuminated airbag light is common, wiggling the wires under either seat usually extinguishes it for a day or two. More permanent fixes are available and inexpensive. On tourers check that the hinged glass window opens OK as does the tailgate as the electrics can go a bit senile.
Speaking of electrics, make sure you don't have any weird issues at hand. That can indicate the ECU has taken a bath. It lives under the nearside plastic scuttle panel and the drain hole at the bottom can get clogged and the whole plenum fills with water. A cheap plumbers drain unblocker or even a welding rod should be used every 6 months to keep it clear.
Underneath, check the jacking points for corrosion. This is a very common 75 rot spot, repair panels are available. The good news is these cars are quite rust resistant and they don't normally corrode badly anywhere else.
Check the upper rear suspension arms very carefully. These support the springs and are a mild steel design with built in rust traps. They have been remanufactured now but replacement is a git of a job.
Fuel tank straps can corrode and snap.
The manuals came with a plastic clutch concentric slave cylinder which sits inside the gearbox and a lot failed early. Not really an issue on surviving cars by now though. DMFs rarely need changing so a new clutch needn't cost the earth.
Petrols, 4 cylinders did have head gasket issues but if its been well maintained it shouldnt surface. Most surviving cars will have been sorted out but now though. Avoid the 1.8 as its underpowered, the 1.8T seems to be well regarded. The 2.0 V6 isn't popular as it has the economy of a 2.5 but less power. The 2.5 is an incredibly smooth and creamy engine. Variable intake motors can rattle but used replacements can sort it out. Thermostats can leak and are involved to replace.
Try and get a Connoisseur or Contemporary SE spec as they're much nicer places to sit. That said the cloth seats are very comfortable and can look good in Sandstone beige.
Diesels are still common so expect to pay about £1k for an average condition manual in a lower spec and approaching double that for a decent diesel auto in a higher trim level.
My advice would be to avoid a tired example as you'll forever be chasing stupid, niggly faults. Get the best you can afford, preferably one that's got some robust evidence of money being spent in the recent past.