The Dark Wob

Neo Bros are 83 quid + postage for LUK clutch kit, so I guess a local motor factor is probably similar money? DMF is the killer at like 300 quid or so though. But I know I'd regret not having it done after paying out for the clutch.

I got it cheap enough that I don't mind spending a bit out. But then the exhaust also needs doing which is a few hundred too. In my mind, R53 Cooper S go for £1.5k to £2.5k usually. So spending another grand sorting one that seems alright still makes it a cheap car. Could spend that again on a more expensive car and still end up with the same thing. But the sensible option would be to ditch and get another car when it gets too bad. I'm not good at sensible...

For now I think I could drive as is, providing I stop booting it everywhere - which I won't but Mrs SiC won't be doing. But then going through Bristol daily isn't going to do it much good either. I'm inclined to get it sorted on this as it seems a alright car otherwise.

This is why I'm shit at bangernomics. I end up spending too much.

How busy are you next week? I'm keen to get the CV boot and that top mount sorted soon. Usual garage I use is getting the A4 at the end of the month for the MOT + service. That was the earliest I could get with them too. However I off next week so can run down to Wellington and drop it off reasonably easily.

With the top mount, I guess this tear on the top isn't particularly healthy? (High resolution zoom-in-able picture)

Next week is pretty full to be honest. The top mount doesn't look too bad and you shouldn't need spring compressors on the s as the springs are short and don't have a lot of travel. I am booking the first week of September at the moment. If you want to borrow a ramp and tools I am around the bank holiday weekend but have a few bits to do but could give you a hand with it

Sounds like it's up to your usual standard!

panhard65 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 20, 2021 10:57 pm Next week is pretty full to be honest. The top mount doesn't look too bad and you shouldn't need spring compressors on the s as the springs are short and don't have a lot of travel. I am booking the first week of September at the moment. If you want to borrow a ramp and tools I am around the bank holiday weekend but have a few bits to do but could give you a hand with it

Thanks for the offer of the ramp. Not sure I'll get much chance over the bank holiday weekend for doing it. The CV boot/top mount is one of those jobs on a modern that ranks high on the not enjoyable scale too, where I'd rather spend the money for someone much quicker and efficient to do it. Type of job that would take me most of a day to do but a professional a couple hours tops.

The Reverend Bluejeans wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 9:31 am Sounds like it's up to your usual standard!

Thanks! As ever I'm going to take this as a compliment rather than an insult.

As we all know on here, a 17 year old second hand car is going to have a few kinks. Could have paid more but that doesn't guarantee less problems. I've seen plenty of other cars with better history, newer and less owners that are far worse condition. So far there isn't anything wrong that isn't consumable (on a Mini).

I don't think I've done too bad here. Got it cheap enough that I can still spend some money to end up with a fully sorted car for less than most others are going for. Much prefer to do that than buy a car for more that is apparently full sorted but that still need a lot of money spending on it. Doesn't help my low tolerance to stuff being broken means I go through with a greater detail than many that most wouldn't know or would ignore.

Bought some bulbs. The ones in it are LED.


They flicker, presumably because the car is checking that the filament isn't blown. Doesn't bother me but it drives Mrs SiC crazy and she's worried about getting pulled over because of it.


Removed the trim as that seemed the obvious thing to do as the screw heads are exposed.


Tried prying the back off but couldn't easily removed. Googling said they slide off.


Replaced the bulb with an good old filament. Spent a bit of time cleaning the corrosion off. Presumably filament bulbs help here as the heat stops too much condensation build up.


Cover snapped it's holding peg, FFS. New one ordered for the princely sum of just over a fiver.


Front side lights have the same problem. Super easy to remove on this.



Indicator bulb looks to be poor condition. Oh well


Not sure what size the boot light should be. Found a slightly smaller one in the parts shop and bent the contacts to fit. Also a 10w rather than 5w, so we will see if it melts the plastic. Might see if there is some cheap higher powered LED replacement.


Topped up the PAS. Bit low and off the bottom but still plenty in the reservoir. Must be weeping somewhere.


Next up was the radiator fan. Noticed stuck in traffic the other day that it went to full speed but there was no low. Common fault apparently as the fan resistors rust to pieces.


Disconnected to probe. Broke the brittle fixing clip. Thankfully its on the replaceable fan side than the loom side. Not that it really matters on this car.


Back probing found the thinner cable as open circuit. That pretty much confirms the problem as a dead resistor. You can get replacement on the fan but they don't last much longer either.



The method that seems to be done on Mini forums is getting a chunky wire wound resistor and connecting that inline. I did think about bodging it by scotchlok between the high speed and low, so it always runs the fan on full. But the thinner cable put me off doing that. Bloody BMW cheapening out on a bit of wire.

I'll get a wire wound resistor and attach that inline. Tbh Mrs SiC will probably moan if the fan is noisy and on full all the time anyway.

Took some time to clean through the scuttle area. Why do so many German cars get clogged up around here?

Removed the bung and gave a good flush through. Put the bung back in as I believe they're there to stop fumes and smells getting to the scuttle, where the air for the cabin is drawn from.




Other side the same but not as accessible. Prodded a fat screwdriver down the bung and ran plenty of water.


The drivers side plastic trim has been poking up since we've had it. This bugs me a lot. I can tell it's had a new windscreen and the fitter must have been ham-fisted.


Pulled it off completely. Didn't take too much.


Realised that the plastic trim was snapped all on the inside. This should have been unscrewed. Again, that ham-fisted windscreen fitter has been here.



New trim clips are holding, so not too bothered. Top plastic piece is broken off too, so might stick it down with some tigerseal.

When driving it earlier, I was trying to prove it slipping. The only time I think it does it, is just after a gear change. I certainly couldn't provoke it by booting it up sharp hills in too high gears, not matter the revs or where on the torque curve the engine was.

Could it be that the clutch hydraulics are just slow at coming up? Is that a possible thing on these?

Would explain why the bite point seems reasonable too.

I've seen dirty slaves take time to fully release on cars and bikes

Hooli wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:56 pm I've seen dirty slaves take time to fully release on cars and bikes

On which of your plantations?

SiC wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 10:34 am

The Reverend Bluejeans wrote: ↑Sat Aug 21, 2021 9:31 am Sounds like it's up to your usual standard!

Thanks! As ever I'm going to take this as a compliment rather than an insult.

As we all know on here, a 17 year old second hand car is going to have a few kinks. Could have paid more but that doesn't guarantee less problems. I've seen plenty of other cars with better history, newer and less owners that are far worse condition. So far there isn't anything wrong that isn't consumable (on a Mini).

I don't think I've done too bad here. Got it cheap enough that I can still spend some money to end up with a fully sorted car for less than most others are going for. Much prefer to do that than buy a car for more that is apparently full sorted but that still need a lot of money spending on it. Doesn't help my low tolerance to stuff being broken means I go through with a greater detail than many that most wouldn't know or would ignore.

It was of course sarcasm. I admire your commitment but I am so over projects now. Changing two calipers is about as much as I can be bothered with these days unless I'm being paid.
Mini clutches are a bastard. Engine supported on a brace, front subframe off etc. The main Mini problem is rust seizure of the various nuts and bolts as well as the outer CV's into the front hubs. Air tools and oxy acetylene are pretty much essentials.

Basically; pay someone else unless you want a real drama.