MGB GT fettling

[Eddie Honda]

It's a 150A alternator used on a whole skipload of Frauds. Get one down the scrappy for 50 sheets.

[Scruffy Bodger]

Good scrappies are few and far between round here sadly. The only good one doesn't let you scout round for stuff now and the people on the desk want daft money. The rest seem to be fronts for other non legit businesses.

[Eddie Honda]

Ok, I'm lucky the place up the road wasn't taking the piss, and is only up the road.

Ebay or other online dismantler? (Or I'd buy a regulator and crack the 200W soldering iron out at some indeterminate date in the future)

Electronics on new-fangled tosh needs rock-steady voltage.

I put up with alternator shonkiness on the Jizz for over a year and finished the battery off early. Original did ten years, replacement managed 4, the last of which was crap charging. I was lazy.

The initial thing that annoyed the tits off me (but not enough to bother my arse) was the headlights used to flicker like fuck. Never bothered the Mrs, but she never went out at night. Then going down the road at a steady speed, the airbag light would come on occasionally for a few seconds and go out again. You could shove it into N let the revs drop to idle and the light would go out. Much later still, the EPS (electric power assist steering) light would come on, with the consequent loss of assistance. Made bombing round corners interesting. Occasionally the car wouldn't start and needed to be jumped. Even if the car started no bother 10 miles previous. The battery appeared fully charged, but those little fuckers fall off a cliff to a solenoid click when they're dead unlike batteries of old that would chug along slower and slower.

Investigating the fault properly at that point was the voltage regulator on the alternator (or lack of it), it was charging ok, but the voltage was all over the place between 14-17 volts - finishing off my battery. Didn't want to splash out 200 yoyos on a recon Mitsubishi Electric alternator, so tried to take the old one off the other Jizz - poxy M6 bolt sheared off, so headed off to the scrappy and they produced one off the shelf for 50. It's been fine since.

As well as having a non-fucked alternator, make sure you have bob-on earths. Take them off and clean them to death.

If the fuse board (sorry "CEM" - aye Cunting Electrical Module) is playing silly buggers then I'd be blaming that shit lead-free solder of modern tut. Maybe someone like cobblers would be able to reflow the whole bastard.

[Scruffy Bodger]

From what I've seen Cobblers really knows his shit! I haven't got a soldering iron man enough for the the job any more I don't think?

[Scruffy Bodger]

Ok. So what's the easiest way of getting the twatting thing out? It's all off and won't come out.
Unholy the power steering pump and drop it out the bottom?

[paulplom]

Drop the subframe and take the engine out.
Usually the case with moderns.

[Hooli]

I can't recall what engine you've got but is this any help?

[youtube][/youtube]

[paulplom]

It's the 1.6 iirc.

[Eddie Honda]

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No 3 on that list. Volvo part number: 36002577 (Volvo exchange unit part number 31288155)

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Main battery is No 1 (std) or No 2 (hd) - 30659794 / 30659798
cheapest "100" size battery is £42
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/100/

or £90 for a posher EFB one
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/100-efb/


Auxiliary battery, c. £35 on the bay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... =0&_sop=15

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I'd waste a "tank of petrol" on those before diving for the Swan Vestas, but if you hate it, sack it off.

[paulplom]

Cars do weird stuff when the batteries are acting up. My '10 leon used to put loads of lights on when it had been standing. Charging the battery and driving it seemed to reset all the parameters or whatever and it would fix itself.