The Dark Wob

Been doing a few things.
Bent up and heat treated a piece of wire to make a new clip to hold the driver's side headlight trim on. This replaced Sikaflex.
I purchased a precisely machined circle.
That brought the endfloat within spec.

Next up, take apart, clean, then reassemble.

Phil

Reassemble time. Torquing up the rear drum to drive flange.
Tightening up the reverse gear tailshaft housing.
Torus housing oil rings.
Torus snap rings.
Center bearing bolts tightened up and tabs bent up to hold them in place.
New oil rings fitted to the governor.
Governor/pump fitted in place, rear pump feed pipe and front servo bolted in.
Rear servo, front oil pickup pipe and gauze screen fitted.
Reverse lever mechanism and valve block, reverse return spring and pipes all fitted up
Old seals removed, new neoprene ones fitted.

Oil pans on to check for warped surfaces and to keep crap out of it. I'll have to pull the pans off again to do initial band adjustment but that's it apart from the fluid torus now.

Phil

Pulled the lower oil pan off again. Band preadjustment time!
The rear band is fairly straightforward. It just needs to be wound against the spring of the rear servo until the measurement between the actuator pin and the rear of the servo is 5 7/16". Loose, it's quite a bit more than that.
Wind the rear band adjuster in.
Measurement is correct at this point.
Tighten the locknut down and call that done.
The front band is slightly more involved and requires a special tool. I have seen how to make it and am going to go to the hardware store this morning to purchase a brass fitting that will screw into that plug hole. I will thread the center of the fitting and insert a bolt, which can be turned to push against the piston.
The piston needs 300 thou' of preload, against which the band is tightened up just snug.

Phil

You're making the black magic of autoboxes look quite understandable, I must be missing something!

Threaded a brass fitting this morning.
This means a bolt can be screwed all the way through.
The plug hole is blind threaded so it seals; put the brass fitting into it.
Dome and polish the end of the bolt so it doesn't chew the piston face up as it is screwed into it.
Calculate 5¾ turns for 0.3" on 18 TPI. Wind it in then adjust the band so it's just snugged down.
Reassemble all and coat with paint.

Phil

And as if by magic...

Phil

I think many of us are in quiet awe of this thread (in both sense of the word....) - maybe Phil should consider re-writing Haynes books - for one thing the pictures make sense!

Yeah, there is little I can say except 'woah', 'wow' and 'oof', which wouldn't add much value to the thread, would it now?

For a slight recommissioning to get it raodworthy, this is a tad on the elaborate side IMHO. I'd call this serious restoration work.

Junkman wrote: ↑Sun Sep 29, 2019 2:24 pm Yeah, there is little I can say except 'woah', 'wow' and 'oof', which wouldn't add much value to the thread, would it now?

For a slight recommissioning to get it raodworthy, this is a tad on the elaborate side IMHO. I'd call this serious restoration work.

Only for the reason that I want to be able to get in it and drive with the minimum amount of fuss (like when it was new). After all, the design itself is sound.
I knew I was buying myself work; I was hoping for a little less. I'm just trying to undo worn out parts.