The Dark Wob

Well, well, well. Look at what was in today's mail. That was quick.

Phil

What pipe are you using for the hard lines? I know copper isn't generally popular in the US - do you have to use steel or can you get knifer?

AMCrebel wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:58 pm What pipe are you using for the hard lines? I know copper isn't generally popular in the US - do you have to use steel or can you get knifer?

Kunifer is frightfully expensive, particularly as this car uses 1/4" lines for the brakes.

I bought plastic coated steel, hopefully it'll last a few years.

Phil

Biodegradable brakes. What can a leaking cylinder do for you today?
And as if by magic, it's all new.
Back down on Terra Firma for tonight. Tomorrow, make new hard line (which broke, helpfully), adjust and bleed brakes.

Pull

PhilA wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 9:06 pm

AMCrebel wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:58 pm What pipe are you using for the hard lines? I know copper isn't generally popular in the US - do you have to use steel or can you get knifer?

Kunifer is frightfully expensive, particularly as this car uses 1/4" lines for the brakes.

I bought plastic coated steel, hopefully it'll last a few years.

Phil

What's that like to work with? I imagine it being a bastard to form into bends - OTH I have never tried it.
I know they do stainless hard line sets for some stuff - I think they are available for my AMC and Chevy - but they are tricky to ship and I'd have to throw half of it away as they are RHD and they only do the LHD versions

AMCrebel wrote: ↑Tue Sep 22, 2020 10:17 pmWhat's that like to work with? I imagine it being a bastard to form into bends - OTH I have never tried it.
I know they do stainless hard line sets for some stuff - I think they are available for my AMC and Chevy - but they are tricky to ship and I'd have to throw half of it away as they are RHD and they only do the LHD versions

It isn't too bad. Harder to form manually than copper but I managed to get things bent mostly tidily.

Phil

Today, I relocated the battery to the trunk.
That's tidied up the engine compartment.
Finished the hard lines off, adjusted the shoes and the e-brake.
The rear flexi was a bit tight, found out why. The left hand axle mount was held on with 3 nuts and no lockwashers, and the axle wasn't located on the centering lug. The left wheel was about an inch further back than it should have been. Fixed that.

Tomorrow, front brakes to be adjusted, hydraulics bled.

Phil

Is it just the angle of the photo or are those rear tyres a bit on the slick side ? I am not a fan of steel brake pipes as it is no where near as easy to work with as copper. I had a car in yesterday that had a brake pipe join put in and it was leaking on the steel pipe due to a poor flare, with copper at least you can tighten it up and it will seal.

panhard65 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 23, 2020 7:41 am Is it just the angle of the photo or are those rear tyres a bit on the slick side ? I am not a fan of steel brake pipes as it is no where near as easy to work with as copper. I had a car in yesterday that had a brake pipe join put in and it was leaking on the steel pipe due to a poor flare, with copper at least you can tighten it up and it will seal.

Agreed, but you gotta work with what you got.

Fish eye lens plus compression, it "removed" the detail of the tread.


Edit: This is what they look like.
Phil

I broke my cheapo flaring tool on steel pipe - in my ignorance. I only ever end up joining to it though and I now have a proper SIP flaremaster. I also didn't realise for ages that the DIN and SAE flares and connectors are different - my old tool only did SAE.
I don't use copper any more, only Kunifer. Not even sure you can buy steel pipe here.
Relocating the battery isn't a five minute job either