Never mind the Gas Crisis heres the Wobstang!

[DodgeRover]

That's been a few different colours!

[Danthecapriman]

I quite like it as it is now! Just lacquer over that worn old paint and leave it I reckon!

What colour are you going for?

[Scruffy Bodger]

A bit of a trip for you but for anyone in the midlands Proptech on the Hartlebury trading estate are very good for that sort of thing. They've been going for years and know their stuff.

[Junkman]

I'm a bit surprised this suddenly became an issue.
One would think with all those 4x4s polluting the inner cities, that industry is thriving.
We never had that kind of problem when I still did a lot of race cars and hot rods.

[8BAK465]

Car is going to be the original Silver,I am also hoping to dump the side trim on the basis it holds rust and its buggered!

The base models just had trim around the side markers ive found a front set but will have to fudge a rear set from cut offs until i find a "Real Rear Set"

Thing is if i dont do this now I will have to do it later and then have to respray it again

Only thing really upsetting me right now is the badly shifting transmission as ive paid money not to have that but still do and my tame mechanic isnt going to want to remove it again

Somehow i think the wear to the transmission made it shift softer.

I think the cars been fecked about with too much over the years to the point the transmission has been rebuilt stock and everything joined to it isnt

Just dont know where to go from here?

[Hooli]

You said something about vacuum affecting the box earlier. I recall a non-standard carb too.

Are all the vacuum lines even attached?

[PhilA]

On all the car restoration shows I've seen involving mustangs, there's always been talk of the vacuum having to be tip top perfect into the gearbox else it changes like a sack of turds on Tuesday.
It's also a common complaint on fora discussing the same.

Phil

[8BAK465]

Thanks Guys

Thinking the same.

I know there is supposed to be two vacuum lines on the distributor one Is mising because it was there but not attatched to a sausage

The missing one I believe went to the airbox in standard form but of course it currently has an aftermarket pancake jobby thats open

As said my carb aint standard and its had all its emissions control disconnected so even though there are vacuum diagrams out there they are for the whole emissions gubbins

But I am guessing what i need is anything that missing bypassed so it still retains vacuum and it might be worth me just replacing each and every vacuum hose?

And yes I had vac problems a while ago turned out to be the pipe has come off the modulator but with those symptoms I had no gears now I do have them they are just harsh.

Its not even harshness its the fact they go a bit like this

Drawn out,nothing nothing not changing then a noise that feels like vacuum related almost goes Shadumph (is that even a word?) then in

Heres what the guy who rebuilt it said


Hi Jo,

Ok so sorry to hear it still seems weird. Its definately overhauled and totally spick and span inside so it must be related to how its being controlled.

The gearbox only knows what you are doing with your throttle by monitoring engine vacuum. It does this via the small round can on the back of the gearbox under the tailhousing. A pipe from this goes to your intake manifold where it attaches to a fitting.

Engine vacuum is produced inside the manifold when the engine is running. It is high when the engine is idling or under gentle throttle and it is low when under full throttle. If this pipe is blocked, not connected, or split so it leaks, the engine vaccum is lost and this is the same as effect as having your foot to the floor.

Having your foot to the floor gives long drawn out gears and harsher shifts for power reasons. This is the symptom you gave. Check the pipe as a first point of call and let me know what you find. Second measure the vacuum at the pipe end by the gearbox to verify you have suction. It should stick to your finger.

There are no other controls for shift points and firmness. If all is ok then the vacuum canister could be faulty I guess. If the vacuum inside the intake manifold is bad then you have leaks on the intake gaskets or a very worn engine. It should read around 16in/HG or higher with a vac gauge at idle.

Lastly - Original pipe would have been hard metal tube with a small rubber pipe at each end. This stops it sucking flat and blocking. Sometimes people use soft silicon rubber all the way if they lost the metal one. This usually squiges flat so avoid it if you can.

Hope this helps

At present its off the road getting paint done but when its back I will look into it

He mentions worn motor cant see that as its a nearly new crate motor

but I know the seller put his own intake on it so could be leaking there I guess?

But yeh as long as its not the transmission I am guessing it can be sorted?

[PhilA]

Sounds like the transmission is doing what it's meant to, changing like it's in kickdown.

With a high vacuum on it, the changes should be at low speed and really soft. Check the takeoff is correctly connected to the modulator.

Phil

[DodgeRover]

Sounds straight forward enough and like the rebuild guy really knows his Mustang boxes! It would be simple enough to add a vacuum take off to the manifold if one isn't present or even to the vacuum side of the carb.
There is usually something to connect to. As a bonus it sounds like it is only looking for a signal amount of vacuum so exact amounts aren't going to make a difference. The motor will be fine, if it was that work you would be hard pressed to see the car for the smoke, are the tappets manual or hydraulic on this? Maybe check the inlets clearances if all else fails